As such, I decided to write a handy guide for anyone coming to Louisville and attending their first Kentucky Derby; such people are often referred to as Derby Virgins. So here it is.
1. Tout Your
Kentuckians are a hospitable bunch, and at no other time are they more friendly and hospitable than for
In 1997, my 1st Derby, we all stumbled out of bed, didn’t check the weather, and rolled to Churchill Downs in shorts, t shirts, and I think I had a windbreaker. A front rolled in and all of a sudden it is 37 degrees, cloudy, raw and cold. My windbreaker went to my GF at the time and it was freezing, almost literally, but I had $5 across the board on Silver Charm and got to see him cross the wire through a fence from our old secret spot in the infield near the finish line, which warmed me right up.
3A Derby Week is a Marathon Not a Sprint; Party Accordingly
Our routine these days is to go out Thursday night, go out Friday night, and then
On top of what I just said, you will probably not get a normal amount of sleep all weekend; similar to a Vegas experience. This is surely moreso for me, as I have lots of locals to visit and my days are full of activities and whatnot that would not be the case if I knew no one in town and was staying in a hotel with a few other people, but still beware. Flying in from the West Coast on a redeye makes it even trickier, as you are starting out the trip on no sleep.
In 2006 I landed Thursday morning off a redeye, started out pretty exhausted, drank waaaaaaay too much on Thursday night, ran into Earl about 3 a.m., then got up at 7 a.m. Friday to play golf, then met friends, and was done. When it was time to go out Friday night I realized that I had a choice: go out Friday and the
Also, naps are a good idea. Sneak them in whenever possible.
Don’t go all modern and bring only the debit card to Churchill Downs; it’s an overwhelmingly cash economy. General Admission is $40 cash and you’re in; back when VISA was the main sponsor of the Triple Crown they had it setup where you could pay to get in on your VISA card only {no MC or AMEX}, but to be honest I do not know if this is still an option since VISA dropped out of the sponsorship game 2 years ago. Even then, paying with VISA would slow things down considerably, and when you have 100,000 people paying to get in general admission, it’s much faster and easier to have cash at the ready to get your ass in.
Food is cash only as well, as are mint juleps. I think the merch booths might allow credit, but I’m not 100%.
5. At The Track: Churchill Downs
... but now that we are older, and we are also into the horses, these days we enjoy camping out by the paddock{where the horses are led in, get saddled, and the riders climb on before they go back out to the track to race}, which is much more chill. There we get to see the incredibly beautiful racehorses up close and personal (like 5 feet away- if you are into horses/horse racing at all then you really should walk over at some point to the paddock and see the horses come in and go out- they are just amazing}, drink juleps, bet the races all day, spot celebrities {seeing OJ at Derby = beyond surreal} and hang out and chill. An added bonus is easy access from the paddock to a covered section which offers intermittent shade on hot days and a dry place when it occasionally rains. We really loved the infield scene when we were younger but now that we're all 30 somethings this is more our scene these days.
As far as betting, get your bets in early. There are a ton of betting windows but not enough to accommodate 155,000 people without a bit of a line. So don’t expect to cruise up to a window with 4 minutes to post and get that juicy bet down at the last minute because you saw a horse take a massive dump while walking out onto the track. You might make it, but you might not. There’s about 45 minutes between each of the 12 races, so if you want to bet the next race then give yourself plenty of time to get the bet in; depending on where you are and which race you can expect to wait in line at the betting window for anywhere from 0 to 15 minutes, and 20 is not unheard of in the infield.
Everything I just said, double at least for the Derby . The Derby is the 10th race, and if you wait until after the 9th race to get your bet in because you want to see the current odds {displayed on totes and screens all over the track}, then I’d get in line with at least 30 minutes to go. At least. If you know what horse you want to bet, then my best advice is to get your bet in earlier in the day, then it is done with, your bets are in, and you can enjoy the spectacle instead of stressing out over whether or not you are going to get your bet in.
I have a bunch of Derby bets that I make for others all over the country, and I get those bets in and done early in the day- one less thing to worry about. If you have anyone back at home who asked you to make a bet for them, I highly recommend doing the same and getting them out of the way early in the day.
The official Derby Program has a page explaining how to place your bet with the ticket taker- how to say it – that is a good guide. Most ticket takers are also very friendly and will be happy to help you. Basically you state the race number {there are 12 races, the Derby being the 10th}, although if you are betting the Derby many people say “the Derby” instead of “the 10th”, then the type of bet followed by the program number of the horse. For example, you might say “In the 6th, I’d like $10 to win on the 2, a $2 exacta box with the 4, 7, and 11, and $5 to place on the 8”. Do not use horse names, only their numbers.
I’ll finish with two words for checking out the unbelievably bountiful ‘scenery’: dark sunglasses. No one likes a gawker- it’s unseemly.
6. Souveniers- The Julep Glass
The best souvenir for yourself, or to take home to loved ones, is easily and without question the julep glass, which are unique each year and feature the official Derby art & logo for that year, as well as a list of every derby winner. They are cool as hell. Anyhow, juleps at the track are now $10 from the julep man, but are served in these glasses which you get to keep. I have found over the years that keeping them at the track all day and lugging them around and getting them home in one piece is tricky. They also have a terrible tendency to get stuck when you stack them together- like hermetically sealed stuck, to where unsticking them can result in broken glass. Plus after the long day they are dirty, sticky, and tricky.
A great alternative for getting your
My usual plan is to buy most of what I’ll need for glasses at a store, and then if a couple or three survive Derby day and get back in one piece then add them to the mix, and if needed hit a store on the way out of town. Alternately, you could just see if you can get a few out of the track in one piece and then order them online once you get back home and just have them shipped to you.
7. Nightlife: Derby After Dark
As far as nightlife/bars,
Another cool place is down the street a ways, an Irish bar called O'Sheas. Also on Bardstown Rd. Much smaller, but has a nice chill scene and 2 different areas with live music.
If you want to go to an EPIC dive bar and have a fun experience, there is a place called The Back Door {amazingly NOT a gay bar} that is an outstanding dive bar.
It's in a strip mall off Bardstown Road, close to Burrito As Big As Your Head {more on that in a minute} but across the street. Go in and order a tray of "Blue Buckys". It a blue shooter drink, and I think you get 6 or 8 on a tray, and they are like $2 each. Go with your group for a couple or five trays, totally worth it, a GREAT dive bar experience.
If you want to go to an EPIC dive bar and have a fun experience, there is a place called The Back Door {amazingly NOT a gay bar} that is an outstanding dive bar.
It's in a strip mall off Bardstown Road, close to Burrito As Big As Your Head {more on that in a minute} but across the street. Go in and order a tray of "Blue Buckys". It a blue shooter drink, and I think you get 6 or 8 on a tray, and they are like $2 each. Go with your group for a couple or five trays, totally worth it, a GREAT dive bar experience.
Finally, Make sure to make a run for Burrito As Big As Your Head, yes that really is the name of the restaurant {actually it's La Bamba: Burrito As Big As Your Head}:
Their tagline is "Open Til The Bars Close" and the bars in Louisville close at either 4 a.m. or 6 a.m., so this is a wonderful place for late night eats. And yes, if you get the large burrito, and hold it up to your head, you will see that they former is in fact longer than the latter.
Their tagline is "Open Til The Bars Close" and the bars in Louisville close at either 4 a.m. or 6 a.m., so this is a wonderful place for late night eats. And yes, if you get the large burrito, and hold it up to your head, you will see that they former is in fact longer than the latter.
A few nightlife options that I don't recommend:
4th Street is a big scene but too packed and crazy for my taste. It is very similar to the Landing in Jacksonville on Georgia/Florida weekend. Great if you are a college student or under 25 and just want to get wasted amongst the biggest crowd, but once you are a little older it's just too many people crammed in too small of a space. Check that- it's too many drunk people crammed into too small of a space.
Everyone’s tastes are so different that this is a fool’s errand, so you are on your own. I know that if you are near the Ole Hickory Pit BBQ then it is an absolute must, but note that they do the Chick-Fil-A and are closed on Sundays.
Brain, The Hit, Solon, Tasso- what did I miss?